Tor Des Geants Race Report

So the Tor Des Geants for those that don't know, is a 206 mile foot race around the beautiful Aosta valley in the Italian Alps. This is a one-of-a-kind race, although guaranteeing to take all runners at least 3 days to complete, it is classified as a single-stage race. Meaning, there is no requirement to sleep/recover every night. This coupled with the distance and the staggering elevation gain of 24,000m over numerous mountain cols about 3000m with the highest being 3299m makes it a bit of a monster!
Physically, I was ready, after spending a month out in the Alps training and clocking up 45,000m ascent in preperation for the specific demands of the race, I had the confidence to tackle whatever the course would throw at my legs.

I knew going into this race that the main issue affecting me would be sleep, and how little I could function on without my performance dropping too low. I have been through one night without sleep on a few occasions, but the thought of 4 nights on minimal sleep worried me and I was apprehensive about sleep deprivation's effect. But I wanted a challenge and this was it - the ultimate mountain ultra race in the world (in my opinion!).

Race morning started with a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs, porridge and 3 coffees...just in case I wasn't shaking enough. I wondered down to the start line in Courmayeur with my parents, who would support me on the way around the course, to meet up with my good friend Alex and his girlfriend Nikki for a(nother) pre-race coffee.

Relaxing before the race

As we were waiting the heavens opened and it began hammering it down. This only made me smile as I love it when it rains, or whenever the weather is generally shite, purely for the fact that the large majority of people hate this weather! So I try to use this as a psychological boost and embrace it.

So, off we departed shortly after a relaxed Italian 10:21am start, up into the rain, me still grinning and blissfully unaware of what pain and suffering lay ahead on this epic journey.

The first few hours flew by as we ascended over the first col and descended down in to La Thuile, where a huge crowd gave a warm welcome and made me feel like I was the only one running. It was here that I first saw my parents, although briefly, which gave me a real boost.

By now the rain had stopped and the next section took the runners up to the first mountain hut, the refuge Deffeyes. It was on this ascent that I came across Nick Hollon from the USA, who was perched on a rock looking dazed. I introduced myself and gave him a GU gel and some water, whilst encouraging him to stay with me. It was a welcome change to the isolation, being able to chat to someone and it was a shame I wasn't fast enough to run anymore with Nick (once he'd recovered!)

Enjoying the first day

Still enjoying the first day

The first night section was rough with heavy rain, strong winds and the highest point of the course, the col Loson at 3299m, all of which combined to make me smile (grimace!?) a few more times than usual. I had a rough plan for sleeping, aiming to stop for a maximum of 2 hours per 24 hours, but having the flexibility and freedom to break that up into 2x1hr. blocks, 1x2hr block, or a combination of shorter 30mins naps etc.

Feeling fresh from only being moving 15hours, I opted to limit myself to 30mins rest when hitting the Eaux Rousses aid station around 1am on the first night. This 'sleep' seemed to do the trick and I felt revitalised upon waking.

I stopped again at the refuge Sella for another 1hr 15 min sleep just before sunrise. This timing couldn't have been better as when I awoke, it was a glorious morning and the sun was just illuminating the snow capped peaks around the Gran Paradiso. This view was more than enough to motivate me to get moving, and I would have been happy ending the run there after seeing that view however... I had another 235kms to cover so thought it was best to keep moving!

At Cogne (102km), I changed and got some Nutella on crossiants down me (nice!) and set off towards the next high point, the Fentre Di Champorche (2827m), forcing myself to run the undulating sections of trail and limit the walking to the steeper ascents. My energy levels remained high and I felt great upon reaching the col. It was here that I remembered from George and Ant (Two amazing running mates who completed the TDG last year) that a 30km descent awaited me all the way down to Donnas!...Sounds easy enough, right!?....wrong!

The first 10km of descent was pleasant enough over open paths and alpine meadows, but then came the rocky steps, more rocky steps and....fla- no sorry, more rocky steps!

3 hours of descending starting to make the knees feel a little sore

My knees were starting to feel fragile now and the heat of the day 30c + made for an interesting few hours. I eventually arrived in Donnas to a warm welcome from my parents,  who helped me get fed and changed, before spotting some attractive female physio students giving out free massages....jackpot!...no more knee pain for Stuie! ;).

I set off out of Donnas in good shape and ready to tackle the 2nd night and (nearly) the 2nd half of the course, rationalising with myself that I'd already covered nearly 100miles in 34hours. However, after checking my watch and seeing that I'd (only) covered 10,000m ascent in this time, I knew the biggest half was yet to come, and quickly reined in my over excitement.

After a few false exits out of Donnas (those who have done the route will get this joke) I made my way out and up towards the refuge Coda.

Now, from Donnas I foumd the ground became considerably more technical, which made for slower going, particularly in the dark. As soon as the sun went away I pulled out my secret weapon, my Ipod filled with all kinds of crap music, mostly Disney classics which I spent the night singing along to as I trotted through the mountains, particularly Akuna Matata, Bear Necessities and Under the Sea (sad I know, but it kept me smiling!). I stopped to sleep for an hour at 11pm and again for another hour at 4am, both of which felt too short. As I set off after this second nap it was still dark and I felt lethargic, especially knowing I had another few hours of darkness to run through.

Upon arriving at the refuge Niel just after sunrise, I failed to refuel properly due to feeling tired and not finding the sight of biscuits, ham and cheese too appealing. I left too hastily after a few cups of coke and off for the next col...well they say 'the burnt hand teaches best' and half way up the next climb, I was regretting my lack of breakfast! Thankfully, I was given some sweet tea by some volunteers at the col Lasoney, just as my ipod ran out of battery, joy...

I was well into the unknown now, in regards to both distance (nearly 200km) and duration (46hours). My legs were feeling strong but I was starting to feel the accumulated effects of sleep deprivation building which was magnified by the fact I had been  isolated with no one but myself to talk to for 2 days....with at least 2 days to go. This was where the true battle of the race would begin, purely in my head, just the thought of kilometers and hours left to cover circulating continually day and night.

I met my parents at the next life base, Gressoney, at the 200km point and got changed and fed once more (no females handing out masssges this time!). It felt good to be around family and just being able to communicate with them on how I was feeling. This definitely made a big difference to my psych.

leaving Gressoney after a well needed breakie

Departing the check point

I left the aid station feeling good physically and psychologically after finding out I was now upto 13th position overall. This helped me push the next section along the river and up to the Col Pinter (2776m). However, I was beginning to feel a deep exhaustion that my legs couldnt shake and I lost a few places here.

The heat of the day was intense once more as I descended down to St Jacques and I felt the need to sleep once more despite it being early afternoon. I had a quick stop and set off for the next col into the 3rd night...I almost instantly regretted not napping at the aid station as I lost a lot of time as I ascended up and over the Col Di Nana. I was exhausted and stumbling over the path, desperate to lie down, but it was cold and windy and the fear of going down with exposure dominated my thoughts and prevented me from stopping 'til I made it down to the next aid station.

After what seemed like an eternity, I finally reached the base of the descent and arrived into Valtournenche, where I was met by a huge crowd in the town and I was happy to find my parents here to help me once more. I immediately stated I needed a sleep, a good sleep lasting my full 2 hours that I had set myself.

I was directed to, and collapsed on, a camp bed where I managed to recharge for an hour before my legs started to hurt. I felt that lying down and attempting to sleep for another hour would be pointless so I got up, ate and sorted my kit out.
I was now beyond caring about positions and times: that had lost all meaning to me. All that mattered now was reaching the finish, a point which my dad reassured me would come and which he expected me to arrive at 16hours later.

I was unable to process this statement and I couldn't quite believe there would be an end to this race.

I kept reminding myself of my 3 favourite little words. "It will come". Despite what I thought at the time, the end WOULD come, sooner or later, it was just a matter of continuing to smile and keep moving.
I was in my own little running world now, consisting of ascents, descents, heat, sunshine, cold, darkness, sleep deprivation and solitude... My body was fine and I felt great physically, but my mind was been driven crazy with only my own thoughts to process and no one to talk to...Because as many of you know, I like to talk and ultimately,  run with people to share the experience.

So, on I continued into the 3rd night and over a beatiful stretch of mountains,  which kept me high and over 3000m for the majority of the night. I stopped once more to sleep for 1hour (Bivouac Reboulaz) and continued on into the quiet night, focusing simply on putting one foot in front of the other, eagerly awaiting the sunrise and a return of much needed energy and pace that only daybreak would bring.

Dawn was by far the most beautiful part of the race for me, each morning, normally being high on a mountain path, I would watch as the dark, dominating shapes around me - that even the brightest headtorch failed to illuminate- would be brought to life with an array of colour that would magnify all the jagged ridges, faces and mountain tops around me. Combine this with an exhausted, delirious, hallucinating runner and it makes for a fun experience that many clubbers would pay good money for.

 I kept reminding myself how lucky I was to be a part of this race and experience such suffering in the mountains, this was why I signed up for this, and I smiled to myself recognising what an epic time I was having and although I was in a great deal of pain, there was no where else I'd rather be.

I felt my energy return as the sun was fully up now and I approached another runner just as I crested the Col Vessonaz. It was no other than the Italian mountain running/alpinist Bruno Brunod! (For those of you who dont know, Bruno was the previous record holder of the Matterhorn ascent/descent before Kilian recently broke it, and still holds the records for numerous mountain ascents. A true pioneer of mountain running and a total legend!)

Bruno seemed to be struggling with a bad leg and after checking he was ok, I shook his hand before he gave me an encouraging "bravo" as I pulled away from him on the descent, just as I noticed that the Matterhorn was in full view from our position- what an amazing moment to share, in such a fitting position

This encounter fueled me onwards and down to the next check point, Oyace, where I grabbed a quick snack and departed into another hot morning.

Time seemed to loose all meaning now and I felt very spaced out as I ascended up to the Col Brison...my mind was a mess and with no one to speak to, I continued to play through an internal, endless dialogue about distance and time left to cover. It was like trying to work out a complicated maths equation, over and over trying to work out how long the final 50km would take. Having not done any of this route before, seemed only to add to my confused state,  and despite knowing I had little more than a marathon distance to cover, I failed to put this fact into context. The only thing I could do was move as fast as I possibly could, enjoy the "zoned out" experience and...smile, simple!All that mattered was my little race world, nothing else existed and had meaning, other than keeping moving and getting to the finish. I felt so far from reality and felt that the world of suffering I was in, would never end, the end although close, was just another point in my race, no meaning or emotion was attached to it yet.

I quiet enjoyed running effortlessly downhill, completely delerious and on the brink of collapse. I was beyond exhasution now; I was on auto pilot; pain faded and was replaced with a calmness that only 3 days of running brings.  Life was simple, keep moving, that was all I had to do.

After a brief stop at my last drop bag point, Ollomont, I was cared for by my parents again and set off into the evening, knowing full well that this was now my last evening out.

Ollimont check point, not far to go!

My "effortless zoned out experience" began to fade as a new wave of exhaustion hit me as the sun set upon the descent from the Col Champillon, and I reverted back to stumbling and tripping down the trail, desperate for a sleep.

I eventually made it to a farmhouse aid station at the foot of the descent and gestured to the volunteers I needed a rest. I was directed to a VERY basic room, where I was shown a "bed" (without a mattress,  just wooden beams) where I immediately collapsed for an hour. I shivered myself awake and still felt k.o'd. I knew this beast must be put to rest and I gritted my teeth, grabbed my pack and headed out on to the trail once more.  I ran at a good pace through forest tracks and towns simply to fight off the cold of the night.

I noticed one signpost that stated "9 hours to Courmayeur" which made me smile, knowing the end, however distant it once seemed, was now so close!

Just one col lay between me and the finish now,  but what an ascent that was! A never ending story of switch backs and course markers that went on for hours. I stopped again for another 1hour sleep at a refuge below the col (the last and by far the best sleep of the race).

I woke up before the guardians prompting and felt an urgency to get going and finish this race. I necked a few cups of coffee before thanking the hut guardian and storming out towards the final high point of the Tor, reasurring myself that it was all downhill to the finish from there. It began to snow as I neared the Col Malatra (2936m) and negotiated the steep, icey scree path broken up with fixed ropes and iron steps to aid my progression up. An hour after leaving the hut I scrambled the final few steps to the narrow col, noting the 24,400m ascent my watch displayed (a sight I doubt ill see for a while!).

I set off running from the col, quickening my pace to keep warm. I didnt get far before two figures approached me, moving uphill in the dark.

After a confusing 'hello' in French and Italian I realsied it was my good friends Ally Hurst and Alex Marchant who had hiked up to meet me in the middle of the night and run the final 10 miles back to Courmayeur with me, truely amazing friends!

I was overwhelmed to see them both and was rather emotional to say the least! It was such a wonderful contrast to the loneliness I had experienced over the past days, to be running with my friends, chatting and joking with them and catching up on what had been happening in the real world whilst I had been away in neverland. We trotted down towards the Bonatti refuge at a leisurely pace before I noticed 3 headtorches only 200m behind me!-I was snapped back to the realisaton that this was still a race and I had not finished yet!

So with Ally and Alex's help we picked up the pace and ran the final section as fast as I could without collapsing. After an hour or so upon reaching the Bertone refuge and knowing that no one was in sight behind me, I relaxed a little and concentrated on making it down the final descent in one piece. 

Final descent with the boys

I was met by another good friend, Sammy Simpson at the foot of the descent, to run in the final mile to the finish line. This was by far the most enjoyable moment of the whole race, running and joking with my friends on the final slopes to Courmayeur, and it was here that all the emotion came out and I began crying uncontrollably.  All those feelings of joy, relief, exhaustion, pain and solitude which I had faced accumulated into tears...all of the sacrifices and energy spent on this race had finally come to an end and what a feeling it was, even though it lasted for only those final metres to the line, it made it all worth it.

I came into town and ran the final 50m of red carpet to the finish line with the cheers of my parents and friends. It was the perfect finish to an unforgettable race. My first thought when crossing the line was...now what!?.the race world had ended and I was back to reality, but I had been on autopilot for such a long time that it felt surreal to be snapped back into a relaxed atmosphere where I could finally enjoy a rest.

The long awaited finish

Best support crew ever

feeling a bit lost

2 hours later and all the suffering is long forgotten;)

It was an incredible race and one which I am still recoverig from through 15hours of sleep a night and 8 meals a day. As each day passes I remember the race with a growing affection as I forget the pain, suffering and loneliness and have it replaced with snap shot memories of countless "bravo's", kind gestures, smiles and sacrifices all the volunteers, supporters, friends and family made to help me get round this course. The beauty of the course, and comaradarie amongst fellow runners (despite the language barrier) which gave the race a real personal feel and I felt part of something truely special.
I was happy with my performance, finishing in 93hours 42mins amd coming in 24th overall. However, I know I can improve and with some more training and specific focus on solo runs and acclimatisation to solitude, I believe I could run faster.

No blisters or foot issues after 200miles and still in good condition, winner!

Massive thank you to my sponsors Scott Sports for providing me with clothing and keeping my feet completely blister free for 206miles!! The K2 Kinabalus cannot be recomended enough for this type of  race!! GU gels for keeping me fueled up along the way, all the support over text and social media from my friends and family back home and finally to my parents and close friends who came out to support me during the race, the sacrifices you made just to help me get through this race will forever be remembered, this Tor belongs to you too.